Phoksundo Lake in Upper Dolpo | Bill Quinlan
Phoksundo Lake in Upper Dolpo  | Bill Quinlan
Phoksumdo Lake, Dolpo region, Nepal
Saldang Village and mountain landscape in the Upper Dolpo of Nepal
Walking through the gullies of Upper Dolpo  | Chris Jones

Dolpo Crystal Mountain to Mustang Traverse

A remarkable trek for the Himalayan connoisseur

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 1 review

27 Days from

$6980 USD

Trip Code: DCMM
View dates to BookEssential Information

Extra trip options & supplements

*Prices listed are per person

Duration

  • 27 Days

Activities

  • 20 day trek

Accommodation

  • 4 nights hotel
  • 22 nights camping

Meals

Valued at USD$1150

  • 23 Dinners
  • 23 Lunches
  • 26 Breakfasts

Difficulty Grading  

7 / 10

Challenging

Carbon Footprint  

24kg of CO2-e PP per day

(635kg of CO2-e PP entire trip)

Trip highlights

  • Walk through the landscapes that inspired Peter Matthiessen’s The Snow Leopard, a place of spiritual mystery and breathtaking scale
  • Hike along the vivid turquoise shores of Phoksumdo Lake, among pine, juniper and birch forests and wild, rocky ridges.
  • Cross remote high passes between Dolpo and Mustang, with endless mountain horizons that reach toward the borderlands of Tibet
  • Trek to the fabled Crystal Mountain, a sacred pilgrimage site in Dolpo, and visit monasteries where Tibetan Buddhist and Bon traditions continue much as they have for centuries

Overview

This is an unforgettable journey into the heart of Dolpo, a secluded region that inspired Peter Matthiessen’s book The Snow Leopard and Eric Valli’s film Himalaya. It’s a land where ancient Buddhist and Bon traditions still guide daily life. Bon is the indigenous religion of Tibet, predating Buddhism, and its rituals and beliefs are still deeply woven into the culture here.

Our specially crafted itinerary begins with an ascent to the sacred waters of Phoksumdo Lake, set among pine and birch forests, before crossing into a wild corner of the Trans Himalaya rarely visited. From Dolpo we traverse east into Mustang, gaining a deep insight into these remote cultural landscapes and experiencing the rugged beauty.

With 20 days of trekking, this is a truly extended Himalayan adventure that takes you further, the kind of journey that often leaves travellers transformed by the sheer scale and spirit of the places they have walked through.

Itinerary

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You will be met by a representative of World Expeditions and transferred to the Radisson hotel. Remainder of the afternoon at leisure. A pre-trek briefing will be given around 4.30-5pm where arrangements will be made for the distribution of your kit bag, sleeping bag and down/fibrefill jacket. This evening we will head out for dinner, this is a great opportunity to get acquainted with your fellow group members. Overnight: Radisson Hotel

Meals: Nil

It’s a one hour flight from Kathmandu to Nepalganj a thriving but largely unattractive trading town, situated on the Terai close to the Indian border. On arrival we transfer to our basic hotel for overnight.

Meals: B,L,D

We board the early morning mountain flight to Juphal. On arrival we drive for one hour to the confluence of the Bheri River and the Suli Gad (or Phuksumdo Khola). We commence our trek stopping at first at the entrance of the Shey/Phuksumdo National Park where are permits are checked. We then continue to a well earned lunch break before continuing for a further three and half hours to the settlement of Chhekpa and our first overnight camp. En route keep watch for herds of bharal or Blue sheep along the river edge. Overnight: Wilderness Camp Our mountain flight that can only operate on clear weather at Juphal. If the flight is cancelled we will have vehicles on standby to drive for five to six hours to a comfortable if basic lodge for overnight. The following day we complete our drive (approx. 7 to 8 hours) to a comfortable campsite at Juphal. In view of this possibility we have included a number of contingency days to ensure that we can complete our itinerary in a timely manner.

Meals: B,L,D

We commence out trek stopping at the entrance of the Shey/Phuksumdo National Park where are permits are checked. We then continue for a well earned lunch break before continuing for a further three and half hours to the settlement of Chhekpa and our first overnight camp. En-route keep watch for herds of bharal or Blue sheep along the river edge. Overnight: Wilderness Camp

Meals: B,L,D

Our trail winds through tiny settlements crossing bridges over the Suli Gad several times. The ascent is gradual through extensive blue pine and cedar forest and tiny glades, a favourite haunt for troupes of langur monkeys. At times our trail climbs high above the river affording panoramic views to the high snow-capped peaks that enclose the walls of the Sali Gad gorge. Our overnight camp is at the village of Necha. Overnight: Wilderness Camp

Meals: B,L,D

A big day as we ascend out of the gorge country to the fabled Phuksumdo Lake. We head to the confluence of the Phuksumdo and Yulung khola (flowing from the Kagmara La and western Dolpo) before reaching the substantial village of Samjhana (marked on some maps as Sanduwar) with the Tapriza school (an impressive high school for students in the region) and local Amchi centre and traditional Tibetan medical practices). We then commence the three hour ascent (steep in places) to Ringmo village and Phuksumdo Lake. Ascending the well-defined switchbacks we take in the awesome 200m waterfall flowing from the lake as well as our first glimpse Kanjiroba 6883m. The village of Ringmo comprises of 20 to 25 dwelling located on a ridge above the serene waters of Phuksumdo Lake. Over the last generation Ringmo together with most other villages in the region have displayed new found wealth from the lucrative yarsa gumpa harvest – a parasitic fungus growing from the burrowing lava of a ghost moth. Each May the villages climb the alpine ridges to collect the fungus that is highly prized in Chinese medicine. Overnight: Wilderness Camp

Meals: B,L,D

A day to acclimatize alongside one of the largest lakes in Nepal. According to legend Ringmo village was once located in the present site of the lake. The lake was flooded and submerged by a spiteful demoness fleeing from the wrath of Padmasambhava – the Lotus Born - when he was converting Tibet to Buddhism. The demoness gave the people a turquoise making them promise not to tell her pursuer that she had passed this way. But the villagers believed that they had been deceived and the demoness in turn took revenge by flooding the village and creating the lake. The lake was one of the key locations for the 1998 movie Caravan (also called Himalaya) that engaged many of the villagers from Ringmo and surrounding area. During our rest day we hike to the nearby monastery steeped in Bon Po, the pre Buddhist Tibetan religious traditions. Overnight: Wilderness Camp

Meals: B,L,D

From Ringmo the trail skirts the western shores of Phoksumdo Lake before a steep ascent) to a crest approx. 450m that affords a birds eye view of the entire lake. The trail then winds down through birch forest to the verdant meadow where the Phuksumdo Khola flows into the lake. After lunch we head across undulating pasture to a Tibetan nomads camp. We camp in the vicinity ringed by blue pine while impressive hanging glaciers on the opposite side of the valley complete a stunning panorama. Overnight: Wilderness Camp

Meals: B,L,D

We continue alongside the Phuksumdo Khola for an hour to a side gorge that marks the direct route to the base of the Ngadra La (the pass we cross on return from Shey). We continue along the floor of the main valley before ascending grassy ridges to our campsite. We are rewarded with spectacular views of numerous high peaks including Shey Shikar (6139m) and Kang Chunne (6443m). A short but necessary stage to assist acclimatization. Overnight: Wilderness Camp

Meals: B,L,D

Another short stage to assist acclimatization. From camp we ascend a sree slope at 4490m before heading to the crest of a grassy ridge at 4640m. There follows a gentle descent to Mendok Ding and our camp. The area is renowned for its flora and fauna including the bharal, the Himalayan blue sheep and the elusive snow leopard. Overnight: Wilderness Camp

Meals: B,L,D

A challenging stage as we cross the high passes that define the windswept circuit around the Riwo Drugdra (the Crystal Mountain). We complete the long pull to the Sehu La (also known as the Mendok Ding La) before undertaking the kora (circumambulation) around the western perimeter of Dolpo’s sacred peak. The trail includes traversing two subsidiary passes that lead to the Tar valley and Shey. On the final stages the trail passes Tsakang, an ancient gompa perched dramatically on the cliffside, which we visit on this stage on return the following day. A well-defined trail then descends to a comfortable campsite on a large meadow opposite Shey monastery. Overnight: Wilderness Camp

Meals: B,L,D

We are now in the heart of Dolpo. Here Peter Matthiessen and George Schaller, the world renowned zoologist and conservationist spent the first two weeks in November 1973 exploring the rugged landscape in a concerted attempt to see the elusive snow leopard. The area also abounds in Buddhist traditions, not only with Tsakang gompa but also with Shey monastery situated in the shadow of the Crystal mountain. The tiny monastery is said to be over 800 years old and includes statues of the Guru Rinpoche and Milarepa as well as Shakyamuni, the historical Buddha. We can also ascend to vantage points to take in the Crystal Mountain in this secluded corner of Dolpo. Overnight: Wilderness Camp

Meals: B,L,D

From Shey we follow the initial stages of the Crystal Mountain kora to Matthiessen’s black pond camp, an extensive meadow where we rest before ascending for approx. two hours to the crest of the Ngadra La. From the pass the views of the snow-capped peaks extend to the borderlands of Tibet while a cluster 6000m peaks to the south complete our stunning vista. From the pass the trail winds down across a series of scree slopes to our camp at Namgung. Overnight: Wilderness Camp

Meals: B,L,D

Beyond Shey we may be fortunate to see a substantial herd of Bharal as we ascend to a ridgeline that affords fine views back to Crystal mountain and east to the rugged mountains that divide Dolpo and Mustang. It takes an hour to reach the outskirts of the substantial village of Saldang – the administrative centre of Dolpo. We visit the Samye Choling monastery and wander the maze of trails linking the mud brick houses. Note in late September the village may appear empty as most villagers will be working in the fields and will not return until dark. Overnight: Wilderness Camp

Meals: B,L,D

A long but doable day, after our previous day to Saldang we are suitably rested to tackle two passes to the village of Shimen. From Saldang we cross the bridge over the Nagon Khola before commencing our ascent to the Khoma La (4565m) to the village of Khomagaon. After a well-earned break we cross the Gurchau Khola before ascending to the Shimen La (4375m) with a bird eyes view of Shimien and the Panjyang valley. From Shimen the trail to the north defined a former trading route between Dolpo and Tibet. Overnight: Wilderness Camp

Meals: B,L,D

Our trail gradually ascends the Panzang Valley. En route fields of buckwheat, barley and potatoes support small settlements as our trail leads to Phalwa and the substantial village of Tinje with its gompa and old fort. From Tinje the trails divert – one leads over the Chhoi La to Do Tarap while ours continues along the Panzang Valley. Overnight: Wilderness Camp

Meals: B,L,D

We follow the course of the Panzang Khola to the confluence of the Kehen Khola where our trail diverts past a series grazing pastures to reach the village of Rapka. Overnight: Wilderness Camp

Meals: B,L,D

A short stage that should see us in camp by lunchtime with time that afternoon to rest, relax and explore the surrounding terrain. Overnight: Wilderness Camp

Meals: B,L,D

We commence the stage with a steady ascent to the Mu La (4950m) to gain breathtaking views north towards Saldang and peaks and ridges to the north that define the mountainous border with Tibet. We then commence our descent, Dhaulagiri and nearby peaks provide a further reminder that we have only a few stages to complete to reach Mustang. Our trails then winds high above the gorges and river course to the ancient almost medieval village of Chharka. In the afternoon a visit to the Serkhang gompa (said to date back to the 10th century) is well worth a visit. The location just above the village will offer a further perspective of one of the largest villages in the region. Chharka is also serves as a meeting for main routes – one coming from Do Tarap, while from here to Mustang there are two main routes – the one to the south over the Niwas La and the Jungben La to Kagbeni (where a road is under construction) while the higher route heads north over the Ghemi La to Ghemi and Lo Manthang. Overnight: Wilderness Camp

Meals: B,L,D

We follow the course of the Dhulji river as our trail ascends through pastures where villagers from the Panjyang valley graze their animals throughout the summer. As we slowly ascend the trail heads across extensive moraine fields to our camp alongside the river. Overnight: Wilderness Camp

Meals: B,L,D

We continue our ascent that necessitates several small river crossing to reach extensive moraine fields and glacial lakes and a spectacular located camp within striking distance of the Ghemi La. Overnight: Wilderness Camp

Meals: B,L,D

An exhilarating and truly rewarding day as we enter the kingdom of Mustang. We head out of the main valley and ascend for an hour to the prayers flags that celebrate the Ghemi La. From the pass are magnificent views of the entire region of Mustang. From the pass savour views of Dhaulagiri, the Nilgiri and Muktinath ranges to the south; the Saribung Range to the west while to the north are snow-capped ranges extend to the borderlands of Tibet. From the pass the trail descends steeply in places to our first camp in Mustang. Overnight: Wilderness Camp

Meals: B,L,D

We continue to traverse moraine fields with several river crossings to our camp at just below 5000m to savour more birds eye views across Mustang. We gain panoramic views across the region, taking in deep gorges carved from the high altitude plateau - including the Mustang Khola – the headwaters of the mighty Kali Gandaki. A wild and rugged land enclosed by snow-capped peaks that define this once isolated Tibetan kingdom. Our small camp is one of the more comfortable campsites (more level and with closer proximity to water) on the descent to Ghemi. Overnight: Wilderness Camp

Meals: B,L,D

On our final trekking day we set off early heading around the contours above the narrow gorges before gradually winding down to the outlying fields of Ghemi. Here we say goodbye to our staff and mule attendants before completing the drive to our comfortable lodge in Jomsom. Overnight: Eco-lodge

Meals: B,L,D

We board the early morning flight to Pokhara savouring magnificent views of the Annapurna and Dhaulagiri ranges. In Pokhara we connect with our flight to Kathmandu. Please Note: should the flight from Jomsom to Pokhara be cancelled due to inclement weather we will drive to Pokhara and connect with the flight to Kathmandu the following day. Overnight: Hotel

Meals: B

Today you have a full day to explore Kathmandu’s bustling streets and significant landmarks. You may wish to start by exploring the city’s two most important World Heritage Listed spiritual sites: Pashupatinath, Nepal’s most sacred Hindu temple and an important cremation site; and Boudhanath, the largest Buddhist stupa in Nepal and the most sacred Tibetan Buddhist shrine outside of Tibet. Alternatively you could wander through the markets and shops of the busy Thamel precinct or explore some more of the city’s significant sites such as Swayambhunath (Monkey Temple) or the World Heritage Listed plazas of Patan, Bhaktapur or Durbar Square. Overnight: Radisson Hotel

Meals: B

After breakfast arrangements cease unless further ones have been made. Those people departing by aircraft will be transferred to the airport.

Meals: B

Ready to start your adventure?

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What’s included?

Included

  • 26 breakfasts, 23 lunches and 23 dinners including all meals on trek valued at approx. US$1100
  • Accommodation at the Radisson Hotel in Kathmandu and in our fully serviced wilderness campsites
  • Internal flights Kathmandu/Nepalganj/Juphal and Jomsom/Pokhara/Kathmandu
  • Expert bilingual guide and group medical kit
  • Arrival (day 1) and departure transfer (day 27) or if you have prebooked accommodation at the Radisson Hotel through World Expeditions
  • All park entrance fees and trekking permits, valued at US$868
  • Use of a World Expeditions trek pack which includes a quality sleeping bag, down or fibre fill jacket and insulated mat (valued at over US$500)
  • Souvenir World Expeditions kit bag
  • Safety equipment including satellite phone, portable high altitude chamber and expedition medical kit
  • Porters to carry all personal and group equipment and porter's insurance

Not included

  • International flights
  • Travel Insurance (compulsory)
  • Visa
  • Tips
  • Lunch & dinner in Kathmandu
  • Bottled water, aerated & alcoholic drinks
  • Items of a personal nature such as phone calls, laundry, etc

Reviews (1)

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