Spice, Spirits & Shipwrights: Cultures and Coastlines of Sulawesi

On arrival in Makassar, the capital of South Sulawesi, we take time to unwind after the flight. We'll meet for an orientation talk with host Jeffrey Mellefont, introducing you to Indonesia’s people, cultures, and language. This is a country made up of more than 17,000 islands and over 700 living languages, and Sulawesi sits right at the cultural crossroads. You'll get a gentle introduction to key phrases in Bahasa Indonesia (the national language), plus background on the region’s history and diverse ethnic groups - including the Bugis, Makassarese, and Torajans - that we’ll encounter along the way. In the evening, we gather for a welcome dinner and enjoy your first tastes of Sulawesi’s rich culinary traditions, especially its renowned seafood. Overnight: Swiss Bell Hotel, Makassar *** To join the tour in Makassar, fly into Sultan Hasanuddin International Airport (UPG). We will nominate a suggested group flight, though you are welcome to travel by the route of your choice. We can quote on airfares, as well as extra nights in Makassar. Some may choose to fly via Denpasar and enjoy time in Bali before or after the tour.

Meals: D

This morning we take a short walk to Fort Rotterdam, a 17th-century Dutch fortress built on the bones of an earlier Gowa stronghold. Inside its coral-stone walls is the La Galigo Museum, home to a fascinating collection of artefacts from Sulawesi’s maritime and highland cultures. We’ll meet with the museum staff for a private introduction to the role of Makassar in regional trade, navigation, and the spread of ideas across the Indonesian archipelago. Lunch is served Padang-style, a feast of Sumatran small dishes where plates cover the table and you’re free to sample everything - from spicy eggplant to slow-cooked rendang, and you then pay for the dishes you choose. In the afternoon we visit Paotere Harbour, where Makassar’s legendary pinisi (pronounced pee-nee-see) auxiliary-sail traders are still docked. These traditional timber vessels are the pride of the Bugis people and remain part of Indonesia’s working maritime fleet. We’ll meet sailors whose families have been trading across the archipelago for generations. We cap the day with sunset drinks overlooking the bay, followed by dinner featuring ikan bakar - Makassar’s beloved style of fresh-caught fish grilled over coals and served with spicy sambal and lime. In the evening, Jeffrey gives an illustrated talk on Indonesia’s boatbuilders and seafarers, offering a deeper look at the heritage we’re encountering firsthand. Overnight: Swiss Bell Hotel, Makassar

Meals: B,D

Early risers are invited to join a morning visit to Makassar’s central markets where the day’s activity begins at sunrise. It’s a sensory dive into everyday life - vendors selling tropical fruits, fresh seafood, spices, flowers, and the ingredients that power the region’s bold cuisine. After our hotel breakfast, we head out on a harbour tour by boat, making our way to Samalona Island, a tiny coral cay just offshore. A picnic lunch, Indonesian-style, is served under the shade of palm trees. Ashore after lunch we visit the ruins of Somba Opu, the mighty 16th-century sultan's stronghold that once controlled the region and was recognised as far as Arnhem Land, Australia! Dr Horst Liebner, maritime history academic and expatriate resident of Makassar, will give us a personalised tour of the sprawling archaeological park and its open-air museum with ethnographic exhibits that highlight Sulawesi’s cultural diversity. Tonight’s dinner features two Makassarese specialties: Pallu Mara – a tangy fish stew flavoured with tamarind and lemongrass Coto Makassar – a rich spiced beef soup, typically served with rice cake (burasa) After dinner, we’ll gather for a relaxed evening talk on Indonesian society and politics, offering insight into the country’s dynamic present and the complex tapestry of cultures and beliefs that shape modern Indonesia. Overnight: Swiss Bell Hotel, Makassar

Meals: B,L,D

Today we leave Makassar behind and head north through the dramatic karst landscapes of South Sulawesi. Towering limestone outcrops give way to deep valleys and rushing water as we arrive at Bantimurung National Park - a place of wild beauty that captivated the great naturalist Alfred Russel Wallace in the 1850s. We'll explore the park, walking quite literally in the footsteps of the man who co-developed the theory of evolution by natural selection. Continuing our journey, we pause to observe an empang - a traditional Indonesian fish-farming pond system, often located just inland from the coast and ingeniously adapted to tidal conditions. We stop at the coastal town of Kota Barru to observe its outrigger fishing fleet and distinctive bagan fishing platforms - floating bamboo structures used for night fishing, lit up like lanterns across the water after dark. Further along the coast, we make short visits to the interisland harbour at Awerange and the busy prahu port at Pare Pare, where sturdy timber craft still ply the waters between Sulawesi and Indonesia’s many outer islands. In Pare Pare those who wish to, can wander to the local pasar malam (night market) offering everything from grilled street food to local crafts and the lively hum of evening trade. Drive: approx 4 hours Overnight: Hotel Satria Wisata, Pare Pare

Meals: B

This morning we begin our journey inland toward the lush, mountainous region known as Tana Toraja - literally “Land of the Toraja.” Along the way, we pass through changing landscapes: coastal plains give way to rolling hills, coffee groves, and dramatic ridgelines. We break our journey in the highland town of Enrekang, where we stretch our legs with a walk through the town centre and stop to visit a local workshop where traditional kris (keris) daggers - ceremonial, wavy-bladed knives - are still crafted by hand. We’ll also sample a slice of local life by tasting dangke, a regional buffalo milk cheese, unique to this part of Sulawesi and traditionally pressed in banana leaves. Depending on the timing, we pause for lunch here or continue to Puncak Lakawan, a scenic mountaintop lookout with expansive views over the Sa’adan River valley, the fertile patchwork of clove and coffee plantations, and the striking profile of Gunung Kabobong, known locally (and cheekily) as the "Erotic Mountain." By late afternoon, we enter Tana Toraja, a region famed for its elaborate ancestral traditions, unique architecture, and deep spiritual connection to the land. Drive: approx 5 hours Overnight: Toraja Misiliana, Tana Toraja

Meals: B

Today we begin our deep dive into the fascinating highland culture of the Toraja people, known for their elaborate funerary rites, ancestral reverence, and remarkable architectural style. These traditions are steeped in symbolism and practiced with deep respect, revealing a worldview where life and death are part of a continuous spiritual journey. Funerary ceremonies in Tana Toraja are elaborate, multi-day events that honour the dead and guide their souls to the afterlife, often involving processions, music, animal offerings, and ancestral rituals. If a local family is holding a ceremony during our stay, there may be an opportunity to respectfully observe part of this remarkable tradition. We begin with a visit to Londa, a striking cliffside burial site where coffins are placed in caves and effigies of the dead (tau tau) gaze out from wooden balconies carved into the rock. At nearby Lemo, another iconic site, natural caves serve as tombs, surrounded by hanging graves and guardian statues. We continue to the Marante cemetery, one of the oldest in the region, where generations of Torajans rest beneath protective cliffs, then on to Kete Kesu, a beautifully preserved Toraja village known for its distinctive tongkonan houses - boat-shaped ancestral homes with upward-sloping roofs - and elaborately carved rice barns. Here, we’ll visit workshops where artisans continue the tradition of woodcarving and blacksmithing, passing skills down through generations. Dinner tonight is a highlight: a traditional Toraja feast, featuring pamarassan - meat (typically chicken or pork) seasoned with black spice and grilled in bamboo over open fire, an earthy and ceremonial cooking style reserved for special occasions. Drive approx: 3 hours Overnight at Toraja Misiliana, Tana Toraja

Meals: B,D

We begin the day with a taste of traditional Toraja breakfast: songkolo, sticky rice charred over coals, served with grated coconut and a salted duck egg - a hearty local favourite. The morning unfolds with time to browse for antiques and handicrafts, from hand-carved wooden sculptures to ceremonial textiles and everyday artefacts. We’ll also have a chance to sample tuak, a mildly fermented palm wine traditionally shared at festivals and ceremonies. Later we explore some of the region’s most moving sacred sites, beginning at Bori, a remarkable megalithic complex where families raise stone menhirs in memory of the deceased. Nearby are the famous baby graves, carved high into the trunks of living trees - a rare practice reserved for infants, with the belief that the tree would absorb the spirit as it continued to grow. We visit ancient stone mortuaries, where whole families are interred inside cliffside chambers, and continue to the weaving village of Sa’dan, where women still use traditional backstrap looms to create vibrant ikat textiles - scarves, sarongs, and blankets dyed with natural pigments and symbolic motifs. In the afternoon we travel to Batutumonga, a highland lookout offering sweeping views across the Sa’adan valley, terraced rice fields, and the jagged silhouette of surrounding mountains. Drive approx: 3 hours Overnight at Toraja Misiliana, Tana Toraja

Meals: B

This morning we visit the Rantepao markets, a lively and colourful weekly gathering that draws villagers from all across the highlands. This is the region’s social and trading hub - where you’ll find everything from handwoven textiles and buffalo horns to spices, vegetables, and ceremonial goods. We drive through sweeping valleys and lush hills, to Palopo, once the royal seat of Luwu, the oldest Bugis kingdom. We’ll visit the local harbour and museum, where we explore the maritime legacy of the Bugis and Makassarese peoples - seafarers who sailed vast distances aboard timber prahu, trading spices, trepang (sea cucumber), and forest products across the archipelago. It was from this region that Makassan fleets made annual voyages to northern Australia - long before European settlement - trading with Aboriginal communities in Arnhem Land for trepang or sea cucumbers. Their presence left a lasting imprint in rock art, language, and memory, making this the earliest recorded interactions between Australia and Asia. Continuing toward Sengkang, we pass classic Bugis stilt houses and graceful pagoda-style mosques, hallmarks of this coastal region. Along the way, we stop for lunch to sample locally farmed bandeng (milkfish), a staple of the region’s thriving aquaculture. We overnight at Sermani, in Sengkang, and this evening we’re treated to a performance by a Wajo Bugis dance troupe, sharing the sounds, rhythms, and stories of a proud and enduring maritime culture. Dinner tonight features the distinctive flavours of Bugis cuisine. Drive approx: 6 hours Overnight: Sermani, Sengkang

Meals: B,D

We begin the day with a visit to Sengkang’s lively morning market, where the stalls overflow with tropical produce, dried fish, woven baskets, spices, and everyday essentials of Bugis life. Next, we visit a silk weaving centre, where we’ll see how Bugis silk for ikat textiles is produced by hand on traditional looms. This is one of the region’s most prized textiles, worn on ceremonial occasions and passed down through generations. You’ll learn about the intricate dyeing and weaving processes, and the cultural meaning behind vibrant patterns. We also stop at the Museum and former Palace of Luwu, home to a collection of heirlooms, royal artefacts and maritime relics that tell the story of one of Sulawesi’s oldest Bugis kingdoms.. The highlight of the day is our excursion to Lake Tempe. As we board traditional dugout longboats and cross the water, keep an eye out for herons, egrets, cormorants, and kingfishers. Our destination is a floating village of Bugis fishermen, where homes rest on pontoons and daily life unfolds on the water. We’ll be welcomed here as lunch guests - a rare and memorable opportunity to share a meal in a truly unique community. This experience also connects us to the broader maritime story of the Bugis and Makassarese peoples - who have long lived in harmony with the water. Overnight: Sermani, Sengkang

Meals: B,L

Today we journey south through Sulawesi’s lush “garden route,” travelling past rice terraces, rubber plantations, and coastal hillsides thick with tropical growth. The road brings us to Watampone, one of the largest towns in South Sulawesi, then stop for a relaxed roadside lunch in Sinjai, known for its mix of Indonesian and Chinese flavours. We may have the opportunity to stop and respectfully enter the village of Kajang, a community known for its Ammatoa traditions - a striking way of life rooted in simplicity, animism, and respect for the forest. Visitors are only permitted on foot and must wear black clothing, a symbol of humility and connection to ancestral beliefs. By late afternoon, we reach the coastal district of Bonto Bahari, where we check in to the Same Hotel, in the heart of Bira Beach. As we settle in for the night, we stand at the gateway to one of Indonesia’s richest maritime legacies - one we’ll explore in depth tomorrow. Drive approx: 6 hours Overnight: Same Hotel, Bira Beach

Meals: B

Today we explore the rich boatbuilding traditions of the Bonto Bahari district, one of Indonesia’s most revered centres of wooden ship construction. We begin at Bira Harbour, where elegant timber sail traders known as pinisi are still being crafted and docked - vessels once used for cargo and trade across the archipelago, and today increasingly adapted for tourism and liveaboard voyages. These are not museum pieces, but working ships, built by hand using inherited knowledge and community cooperation. You’ll witness the process firsthand: no blueprints, just memory and measurement passed down through generations. We continue to the waterfront villages of Kaluku and Tanah Beru, where generations of boatbuilders still craft these mighty timber vessels by hand. Here we’re welcomed by a local family and over a home cooked lunch hear stories of the craft that defines their identity and connects them to the sea. In the afternoon, we travel to Lemo Lemo, a quiet coastal hamlet that holds both ancestral graves and the remnants of older encounters - among them a Portuguese cannon and a limestone cavern long associated with local history and trade. It’s a day of connection: to heritage, to craftsmanship, and to the enduring maritime spirit that defines this part of Sulawesi. Overnight: Same Hotel, Bira Beach

Meals: B,L

After breakfast, we take local fishing boats across calm waters to Liukang Island, a nearby coral-fringed paradise known for white-sand beaches. Returning to Bira Beach, we then set off in the afternoon to explore Ara, a traditional Makassan boatbuilding town tucked between hills and sea. Then it's on to Pantai Mandala Ria, a remote stretch of perfect tropical coastline far from the crowds and all the more magical for it. Overnight: Same Hotel, Bira Beach

Meals: B,L

Today we journey north along Sulawesi’s eastern coast, enjoying a leisurely drive through a string of fishing villages, market towns, and salt-making communities. Along the way, we pause to observe traditional outrigger canoes pulled up on beaches, sellers of tuak palm wine tapped from local lontar trees, and everyday life unfolding in the towns of Bulukumba, Bantaeng, Laikang, Takalar, and Galesong. One highlight is a stop at Sungguminasa, once the seat of a powerful local sultanate, where echoes of the past linger in old precincts and palace walls. By late afternoon we return to Makassar. Saturday night brings a vibrant energy to the city as locals gather along the promenade - street food stalls, live music, and a festive air all invite us to take part in the city’s weekend ritual. Drive approx: 4 hours Overnight: Swiss Bell Hotel, Makassar

Meals: B

After breakfast, our tour comes to a close with transfers to the airport for onward travel. As we say farewell, we carry with us the vivid impressions of this Sulawesi journey - from mountain trails and floating villages to the salty air of the sea, all held together by stories of culture, connection, and discovery. There is more to see in Makassar and Sulawesi, so if you do wish to extend your stay, please let us know.

Meals: B