Flower market in Kolkata | Shutterstock

Royal Bengal tiger | shutterstock

Pink lotus at the flower market | Shutterstock

Young Hari Krishna devotees | Margie Thomas

Katra Masjid Mosque, Murshidabad | shutterstock

Pani Puri street seller | Shutterstock

South Park Street Cemetery, Kolkata | shutterstock

Bari Kothi hall | Margie Thomas

Victoria Memorial, Kolkata | shutterstock

Fishermen on the river Sunderbans | Margie Thomas

Worshiping the deities Murshidabad | Margie Thomas

Bengal's City of Joy & River of Dreamswith Margie Thomas

Explore the rich history, diverse culture and lesser-known backroads and waterways of West Bengal.

14 Days from

$6290 USD

Trip Code: MTCJ

View dates to Book Essential Information

Extra trip options & supplements

*Prices listed are per person

Single supplement

$2110 USD

Duration

14 Days

Activities

14 day cultural tour

Accommodation

13 nights accommodation including heritage hotels and a wildlife resort

Meals

8 Dinners
9 Lunches
13 Breakfasts

Difficulty Grading

3 / 10

Adventure touring

Carbon Footprint

61kg of CO₂-e PP per day

(789kg of CO₂-e PP entire trip)

Trip highlights

A carefully curated journey through West Bengal for Indophiles and like-minded travellers to a part of India that surprisingly few tourists visit.
Immerse yourself in the historic past and vibrant culture of India’s former Imperial capital - Kolkata – the City of Joy.
Discover 18th century Danish and French settlements along the Hooghly River, once bustling ports crucial to the trade of opium, indigo, jute and silk.
Explore in depth Bengal’s former capital – Murshidabad – which once accounted for a gobsmacking 5% of the world’s GDP via its trade in opium, silk, jute and indigo.
Accompanied by engaging local guides & storytellers – masters of the art of avoiding history lessons.
Stay in heritage hotels in Kolkata and Murshidabad – renowned for their opulence, exceptional ambience and cuisine.
Drift along the backwaters of the Sundarbans, the world’s largest mangrove forest and home to the elusive Bengal tiger.

Overview

Our journey affords an unrivalled opportunity to explore the rich history, diverse culture, handicrafts and lesser-known backroads and waterways of West Bengal.

In Kolkata, former Imperial capital of the British Raj, we walk in the footsteps of the Raj, taking in splendid, often crumbling palaces and mansions. In the company of our erudite local guides our stay includes an early morning walk by the Hooghly river, a distributary of the Ganges, to the city’s vibrant flower markets and clay idol maker’s precinct at Kumartulli – where the daily hum of life is tangible. We’ll also explore the “Taj of the Raj”, the Victoria Memorial, honouring Queen Victoria, the Empress of India, and surrounding Maidan, a salutary reminder of the city’s Imperial past

Our days in Kolkata offer untold insights into India’s most vibrant and compelling city - the City of Joy.

The British weren’t the only people to leave their indelible stamp on West Bengal. From Kolkata we leave the big city buzz behind, taking a day trip by car to explore the sleepy town of Serampore - the Danish settlement on the banks of the Ganges where we’ll have lunch at the beautifully restored Danish Tavern, built in 1786. We then move on to Chandernagore, the settlement established by the French, where we’ll visit magnificent colonial architecture idyllically situated along the mighty river.

Our last stop on our return to Kolkata is to the Hooghly Imambara, a massive two storeyed building which commenced construction in 1841, taking twenty years to complete. This building is situated on the banks of river Ganga and is a major religious centre for the followers of Islam – specifically Shia Muslims. It’s important to note that an Imambarah is not a mosque and is open to people of all caste, creed or religion.

We travel by train to Murshidabad, the fascinating old capital of West Bengal. Any train trip in India is an experience in itself and this one is no exception. We’ll be entertained by passing musicians, acrobats, hawkers selling trinkets & gadgets and chai wallahs deftly dispensing hot chai into small clay cups. It’s hard to picture this semi-rural settlement as one that in its heyday, matched London in size, power and opulence. As its prominence diminished after the capital moved to Calcutta, the population shrank, and creepers and Banyan trees moved in, inhabiting ancient monuments and mansions. Our home for four nights in Murshidabad is truly spectacular – believe me you won’t want to leave!

After returning to Kolkata for a night, we head to the vast Gangetic delta and the Sunderbans. Sunderban Tiger Camp is a blissful escape into the heart of nature. Situated on the edge of the Sunderban National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage site, of 4,268 square kilometres of mangroves and is the largest estuarine forest in the world. For three days we take in the natural wonders of this pristine environment – home to massive crocodiles, fishing cats, spotted deer and an abundance of birdlife to name just a few inhabitants. Boats drift down serene backwaters on the lookout for the prolific wildlife for which it’s famous, including the elusive Bengal tiger.

We return one last time to Kolkata for a memorable farewell dinner before our trip concludes.

Itinerary

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Welcome to West Bengal. The capital of the British Raj until 1911, Kolkata retains its imperial splendour in its grand buildings and rich colonial heritage. Kolkata is frequently referred to as India’s intellectual capital, the birthplace of some of its best-known writers, artists and filmmakers. Its teeming bazaars and stately mansions are testimony to its prominence as the commercial hub of eastern India. Kolkata is a vibrant, many layered city with a rich cultural life and many fascinating areas to explore. We will have one nominated group flight for the arrival transfer. If arriving on a different day or flight we can book a transfer service for you at an extra cost. As most flights arrive late in the evening there are no plans for today. Overnight Hotel Fairlawn, Kolkata

Meals: Nil

Nearby to the hotel we start our explorations of Kolkata by wandering through Dalhousie Square, now known as Benoy Badal Dinesh Bagh, an oasis in the heart of modern Kolkata. Here we'll also visit St John’s Church and the memorial to the black hole of Calcutta, an obelisk commemorating the British prisoners who died in the siege of Calcutta. Next we tour one of Kolkata's most beautiful monuments – the Victoria Memorial. Funded by Indian princes, the British government and the former Viceroy of India Lord Curzon, it was inaugurated by the Prince of Wales in 1921. Constructed from the same marble used by the Mughal emperor Shah Jahan to build the Taj Mahal, the Memorial exudes majesty and elegance. It houses several galleries displaying a rich collection of sculpture, painting, armaments and other historical treasures. In the afternoon we’ll visit the South Park Street Cemetery, built in 1767 for the earliest British pioneers of the East India Company. Visiting graveyards is a melancholy pursuit and this necropolis with no graves newer than 100 years old is no exception. It’s filled with crumbling colonnades, mossy mausoleums, obelisks, sarcophagi, and headstones that tell tragic stories of untimely deaths. It’s the final resting place of people of all ages who succumbed to the hardships of an unfamiliar and disease-ridden life in India. Overnight Hotel Fairlawn, Kolkata

Meals: B

Our first stop this morning is the Mallick Ghat Flower Market, located on the banks of the Hooghly River - one of the largest and oldest flower markets in India, dating back to the mid-19th century. A riot of colour and scent where flowers such as marigold, lotus and jasmine are prepared for offerings and festivals. The Hooghly River is lined with dozens of ghats—stone or concrete steps descending into the water—used for worship, cremation, and ritual bathing. We explore these sacred riverfronts along with Kalighat Temple, Kolkata’s most revered Hindu shrine, dedicated to the fierce and compassionate goddess Kali. In the afternoon we resume our sightseeing on Chitpur Road, one of Kolkata’s oldest roads and home to diverse communities, unique craft traditions and heritage buildings. As we walk, we'll enjoy street food snacks from the many hole in the wall eateries that dot old Calcutta where everyone from revolutionaries to literati have gathered to satisfy their hunger. We’ll also stop in at the iconic Indian Coffee House on College Street, a favourite hangout for Bengali students and intellectuals for over a century. Overnight Hotel Fairlawn, Kolkata

Meals: B

A day trip by car takes us to explore the sleepy towns of Serampore, Chandernagore and Chinsurah. Seramphore is the Danish settlement founded in 1755 by the Danish Asiatic company as a trading outpost on the banks of the Ganges and there we’ll have lunch (own expense) at the beautifully restored Danish Tavern built in 1786. We then move on to Chandernagore, a settlement established by the French, where we’ll visit magnificent colonial architecture idyllically situated along the mighty river. It’s a charming town and was governed by the French until 1951. You can clearly see the cultural and architectural imprint left by the French and you might come across remnants of the French language being spoken and French cuisine like baguettes and croissants on offer. The British were certainly not alone in making their mark in West Bengal. Our last stop on our return to Kolkata is to the Hooghly Imambara in Chinsurah, a massive two storeyed building built in 1861 by Mohammedan ruler Hazi Mohsin. Again, the building is situated on the banks of river Ganga and is a major religious centre of the followers of Islam – specifically Shia Muslims. Exquisitely carved walls, texts of the Holy Book of Quran, massive crystal chandeliers and imposing entrance pillars as well as an ancient clock tower are some of the most captivating features of this architectural wonder. Overnight Hotel Fairlawn, Kolkata Driving approx 10 hours total

Meals: B

This morning we take the early train to Murshidabad. The train journey is itself an experience with hawkers selling sweet chai, spicy samosas, books, toys and all manner of knicknaks and keepsakes. Baul musicians frequent this service hoping for donations as they sing their devotional songs. Murshidabad, the last capital city of independent Bengal is situated on the banks of the Bhagirathi and is known for its rich culture and heritage. The region has seen some of the most significant events of Indian history including the Battle of Plassey. The historical significance of the region in the 1700s attracted the wealthiest merchants from across India to migrate to Murshidabad. This led to a confluence of cultures and gave birth to its very own unique and diverse culture. Having once contributed an eyewatering 5% of the world’s GDP at one point in history, it is seemingly lost in time today. Murshidabad is dotted with majestic palaces, mosques and ruins spread out among verdant green paddy fields and mango plantations. In the afternoon we take a barge up the river to visit the Char Mangla group of four Siva Manders. The “Char Bangla” temples were built by Queen Bavani of Natore in 1755 AD. They’re enclosed in a small courtyard, with each temple having three arched openings and three siva-lingams. Richly decorated, their facades illustrate the very best in ornamental brickwork of West Bengal. The decorative themes are drawn mainly from the Hindu epics and puranas. Late in the afternoon, we’ll also wander through organic vegetable and mango farms on our way back to our barge. Our accommodation is in the magnificently restored ancestral mansion of the Dhudhoria family. Train journey approx 4 hours Overnight Bari Kothi Hotel, Murshidabad

Meals: B,L,D

Today we explore the many riches of Murshidabad starting with Hazariduari Palace, the name Hazarduari literally means "a thousand doors" in Persian. The palace was once the residence of the Nawabs of Bengal and now a museum. We wander the elegant palace of Wasef Manzil, the serene Madina Mosque and the beautiful Katra Mosque whose domed rooms were designed for scholars and students studying Islamic theology. Overnight Bari Kothi Hotel, Murshidabad

Meals: B,L,D

Bari Kothi, besides conserving its own heritage, preserves the cultural heritage of its surroundings. An early morning storytelling walk down the lanes will take us back 200 years. The magnificent Jain Temples and other Havelis like Nowlakha Kothi, Rajbari, Singhi Koth, Marble Palace illustrates the opulence and glory of the era. Tonight we enjoy another dinner at Bari Kothi, savouring Sheherwali cuisine, which has featured prominently in this community, evolving passionately through their 300-year history in Bengal. The cuisine is the finest vegetarian food one can find and is a wonderful melange of the cuisines of the west and the east of India. Overnight Bari Kothi Hotel, Murshidabad

Meals: B,L,D

On our last day at Bari Kothi we’ll have a more leisurely start, making the most of our magnificent surroundings, this is a place you will not want to leave! We’ll start the day with a leisurely breakfast served on the banks of the river. Since textiles play such an important role in the history of Murshidabad, we’ll go on a guided Textile Tour with our hosts at Bari Kothi. We’ll visit and interact with locals at Tantipara (Weaver’s Village) and Islampore (an important area for sericulture, the cultivation of silk worms). Murshidabad has always been world famous for its fine quality silks and muslins. The afternoon is free to relax and soak up time at this incredible Jain mansion. Overnight Bari Kothi Hotel, Murshidabad

Meals: B,L,D

After breakfast, we farewell our hosts at Bari Kothi and take the barge and then onward by train to Kolkata, arriving early afternoon. We'll have lunch together at a local restaurant and check then into the hotel. After a quick freshen up, we'll head off for some further sightseeing of Kolkata's most famous monuments. The Marble Palace is the sprawling 19th century mansion of the Mullick family, which houses an eclectic collection of art and antiques ranging from Old Masters to statues of Hindu gods. The palace earned its name from the 90 varieties of patterned marble on its floors. There are paintings by Reubens and Joshua Reynolds, Dresden figurines and Bohemian goblets. The author Geoffrey Moorhouse described it as ‘the richest, the quaintest, the eeriest, the most haphazard and the most ridiculous, the most astounding and the most loveable’ place in Kolkata. Nearby is Jorsanko Takur Bari, the birthplace of the poet and Nobel Laureate Rabindranath Tagore, now a museum which gives an insight into the Tagore family’s involvement in Hindu reform movements and the Bengal Renaissance. The evening is free to enjoy Kolkata. Our hotel is just few minutes’ walk from Park Street, a bustling hub for shopping, cafes, restaurants, bars, and bookstores. Train journey approx 4 hours Overnight Hotel Fairlawn, Kolkata

Meals: B,L

After an early morning breakfast, we set off for the Sunderbans. We'll make a quick stop at the Kolkata fish market when the market is most lively and interesting. After our drive, we transfer to a boat to take us to Dayapur Island in the heart of the Sunderbans, a UNESCO-listed wilderness. This is one of the most remote wilderness areas in India, its dense mangrove forests and intricate waterways making it only accessible by boat—there are no roads leading deep into the core of the forest and only small villages and settlements on the fringes. We will spend 3 nights in our eco friendly cottages, a comfortable yet immersive stay in the heart of this wild landscape. Driving approx 3 - 4 hours + 2 hour boat ride. Overnight Tiger Camp Wildlife Resort

Meals: B,L,D

We spend our days in the Sunderbans exploring the river, mangroves and islands by boat safari. We'll see various "watchtowers", elevated observation points originally built for forest officials to monitor the movement of tigers and other animals, now serving as key vantage points for visitors. We will be on the lookout for spotted deer, irrawaddy dolphins, crocodiles and maybe even a Royal Bengal tiger, there is believed to be more than 100 in the National Park. The Sundarbans is also a paradise for bird lovers, with over 250 species thriving in its unique mangrove ecosystem. Overnight Tiger Camp Wildlife Resort

Meals: B,L,D

Another full day boat safari where both breakfast and lunch will be taken onboard. Today's focus will be exploring the Sundarbans' creeks, rivers, and rivulets, while looking for endemic birds. In the late afternoon, we will take a walk with Nawang, to visit nearby Adibasi village at Dayapur Island to observe local lifestyle, crafts, cuisines, and how villagers and tigers coexist. We enjoy our final night in the Sunderbans with dinner, a bonfire and dance performance. Overnight Tiger Camp Wildlife Resort

Meals: B,L,D

One final morning weaving through the mangroves by boat before an early lunch back at the resort. We then transfer off Dayapur Island and drive back to Kolkata for a special farewell dinner which will showcase centuries old recipes of traditional Bengali dishes. You’ll have the afternoon free to visit the museum, shop at the markets, or just relax. Driving approx 3 - 4 hours + 2 hour boat ride. Our final dinner is set in a luxurious colonial style hotel with impressive views of Victoria Memorial, a truly memorable end to our journey through Bengal’s City of Joy and River of Dreams. Overnight Hotel Fairlawn, Kolkata

Meals: B,L,D

The tour arrangements conclude after breakfast. We will be happy to assist with extra accommodation if you wish to extend your stay, or airport transfers for your travel home.

Meals: B

Ready to start your adventure?

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What’s included?

Included

Escorted by Margie Thomas
13 nights accommodation including heritage hotels and a wildlife resort
13 breakfasts, 9 lunches and 8 dinners
Expert bilingual guide
Private transportation
Train trip Kolkata-Murshidabad return on days 5 & 9
Signature walking tours by Calcutta Walks on days 2 & 3
Entrance fees to the monuments visited on day 2
E-rickshaw ride in Serampore/ Chandernagar on day 4
Forest Entry fee at Sunderbans Forest Reserve

Not included

International flights
Travel insurance (compulsory)
Single supplement - rooms are double for single use
Meals not detailed in the itinerary
Bottled water, aerated and alcoholic drinks
Items of a personal nature such as phone calls, laundry etc.
Tips
Visa

About your guide

The group will be escorted by Margie Thomas. Margie has been visiting India for the past 25 years, including undertaking numerous visits to Kolkata, and treks in the Indian Himalaya. She leads an annual trip to Upper Mustang on the Tibetan border in Nepal and is author of TSOSHAR A Rich Cultural Heritage in Upper Mustang, written as a fundraiser during COVID, which is sold out. (e-copies are available in PDF form.) She loved her recent trip to West Bengal so much, she started planning to return immediately she arrived home, and is excited to share the riotous colour, architectural wonders, mysticism, natural beauty, cuisine, and chaos that West Bengal offers in abundance.