Peak Lenin and Khan Tengri Expedition

On arrival you will be met and transferred to your hotel after which the remainder of the day is at leisure. Eating out in Bishkek is excellent value with good food and a mixture of western style dishes and Asian food available. July is the middle of summer in Central Asia with temperatures consistently around 40°C in Bishkek, a stark contrast to the snow and cold temperatures later in the trip.

Meals: Nil

We will rise early for our flight to Osh, the nearest city from which expeditions to Peak Lenin begin. Osh (known as the 'Southern Capital') is the biggest city in southern Kyrgyzstan. It is a city with a host of side-streets, cozy open-air cafes and restaurants, bazaars and the main point of interest, Sulayman-Mountain. This "mountain" rises in the middle of the town against a background of urban life, reminding us of the proximity of the Pamir-Alay Mountains, one of the least known mountain wildernesses in the world. From Osh to our base camp we drive along the Pamir Tract. We will cross the Taldyk Pass (3615m) before taking lunch in a yurt camp near Sary Tash village en-route. In the afternoon we will enter the Alay Valley to our base camp. Base Camp (3800m) is set on a picturesque alpine glade called Lukovaya Polyana. It is very comfortably appointed with large two person tents with wooden flooring and kurpachas, the Kirghiz national mattress, hot showers and best of all, saunas. The base camp is a comfortable home away from home during this part of the expedition.

Meals: B,L,D

The first few days of the trip have been set aside for acclimatisation. Your guide will brief you on the days ahead and assist you with your gear. Flexibility, a positive attitude and a desire to patiently overcome the various challenges are required on high altitude expeditions. Over the course of the next 3 days we will undertake acclimatisation walks in the hills above basecamp and possibly attempt to climb the nearby Peak Petrovsky at 4800m.

Meals: B,L,D

The schedule during an expedition is flexible, with time required for rest, acclimatisation, weather and other factors.Today is a planned rest day at our well equipped base camp, where you may wish to avail of the sauna (at own expense) or another hot shower before the next stage of the expedition. Note the rest day may take place at a different time, depending on conditions and the needs of the group.

Meals: B,L,D

Today will be a long day as we depart for camp 1/ABC (Advance base camp). Approx 6 hours.

Meals: B,L,D

During this acclimatisation period we will explore the area around camp 1/ABC and ascend to camp 2 at 5400m for the first time. Leaving camp 1 we head towards the North Wall and the beginning of the snow slope. After crossing the Lenin Glacier the angle of the slope is 35 to 40 degrees and we will use fixed ropes to assist us. Continuing up for approx. 80 metres we then traverse the slope onto a snow plateau known as “Skovoroda”. There is a final slope before reaching camp, we will then return to camp 1/ABC for a rest day.

Meals: B,L,D

Today is set aside to rest and recharge at our well equipped camp 1/ABC.

Meals: B,L,D

We leave the comfort of our advance base camp to make our way to camp 3 from where we will make our summit bid.The climb between camp 2 and camp 3 can be exposed and windy. We ascend the 30 degrees slope towards Razdelnaya Peak always keeping to the left of the rock to gain the broad ridge. Camp 3 is located at 6100m on the plateau about 200m from the summit of Razdelnaya. We will then retrace our steps to camp 1/ABC.

Meals: B,L,D

A final rest day at camp 1/ABC before our summit bid.

Meals: B,L,D

The route to the summit is not considered a technical climb, and although it is relatively straightforward, it is very challenging due to the high altitude and often adverse weather conditions. The trek to the top is a long one on a relatively easy angled ridge. Summit day will be around a 12-14 hour day. Our itinerary during this time is flexible. We ask that all participants follow the advice of the expedition leader and crew at all times and participate actively in load carrying, setting up of camps and preparing of meals when required. Peak Lenin is considered an easy 7000m peak and that is certainly true from a technical point of view however there are some unique features that make this a very challenging climb. We have two contingency days to be used where required in the itinerary to maximise our chances of summit success. Peak Lenin is considered an easy 7000m peak and that is certainly true from a technical point of view however there are some unique features that make this a very challenging climb. It is worth noting that the success rate on this mountain is less than 25%. Compared to other groups (commercial and private) on Peak Lenin our acclimatisation schedule is significantly more thorough/conservative. Most people fail on Lenin because they are not adequately acclimatised.

Meals: B,L,D

Our final journey on the mountain, back to base camp for a well earned shower.

Meals: B,L,D

After a demanding yet exhilarating climb farewell the mountain and transfer back to Osh. Time now to hopefully celebrate summit success!

Meals: B,L

Today we will fly from Osh back to Bishkek. The rest of the day and the next is at leisure for you to relax and prepare for the next leg of the expedition. Those who have opted to climb Peak Lenin as a standalone trip will leave us here.

Meals: B

The drive from Bishkek to Karkara heliport camp (right on the border/river with Kazakhstan) takes approximately 8 hours. Apart from the last 1.5 hours the road is sealed and in very good condition or in the process of being upgraded. Tents in Karkara are the same large 2 person tents used in Lenin BC and C1. A building containing kitchen, dining room and bar is located next to camp. Showers and toilets are at the other end of camp. The camp is in a very picturesque setting next to the river with grassy slopes and forest covered hills/mountains all around.

Meals: B,L,D

Today an exhilarating helicopter ride takes us breathtakingly close to the mountains as we make our transfer to our BC for the remainder of the expedition. The helicopter ride to BC is an adventure in itself with incredible views of huge glaciers and countless mountains. BC is located on the moraine at about 4000m on the South Inylchek glacier and serves as base camp for both Khan Tengri and Popeda (both are clearly visible from camp). Here we will settle in and prepare for the climb ahead.

Meals: B,L,D

Given we are well acclimatised from our Peak Lenin climb, our climbing period on Khan Tengri can safely be made shorter than if we were to attempt the peak as a standalone expedition. The following is a brief summary of our route on the peak, with timing between camps as always dependent on weather, snow conditions and the fitness of the group. We have included ample rest days, to be used when appropriate in order to maximise the chances of summit success. Your leader will keep you informed and briefed in the days ahead. A flexible mindset and openness to changing conditions and plans are vital on a trip of this nature. The walk from BC to C1 is straightforward but can be tricky to navigate in poor visibility. We will follow the moraine out of BC for about 45 minutes before stepping on to the glacier to continue up a modest incline on the vast glacier in direction of Khan Tengri. C1 is at the junction of the South Inylchek and Semenovsky glaciers. We plan to travel between C1 and C2 on Khan Tengri only twice on the expedition, reducing the risks associated with avalanches by ascending/descending during the night or early morning. The route up the Semenovsky glacier (Khan Tengri south face) between C1 and C2 is at times directly beneath the south-east face of Chapeav Peak and shortly before reaching C2 the route is funnelled through a small icefall at 4900-5100m. C2 is situated in a safe spot in the middle of the glacier and beyond it, a straightforward snow slope takes us to C3, tucked away on ledge 20m below the saddle (West Col) between Khan Tengri and Chapaev Peak. The view south from high on Khan Tengri across the Tien-Shan range is phenomenal and the extensive glacial systems up there have to be seen to be believed. There is considerably more rope work involved on this peak compared with Lenin and climbers need to be technically proficient and able to quickly ascend/descend fixed lines especially on summit day, where you can expect a good deal of scrambling and awkward steps on steep rocky steps linked with snow patches. All being well, you’ll be rewarded for your efforts with the view from the top of the spectacular ice pyramid of Khan Tengri.

Meals: B,L,D

All going well we leave Khan Tengri BC by charter helicopter today. The spectacular flight over the mountains is another unforgettable experience on a most memorable and rewarding expedition in Central Asia. The day will be a long one and we will be thankful of the day in Bishkek tomorrow to relax before our international flights.

Meals: B,L,D

Today will be spent relaxing and celebrating our expedition.

Meals: B

After breakfast, the trip concludes with a transfer to the airport for onward arrangements.

Meals: B