Summit success on Peak Lenin | Soren Kruse Ledet
Summit success on Peak Lenin  | Soren Kruse Ledet
Views from the summit of Peak Lenin
Setting out on Peak Lenin, Kyrgyzstan  | Soren Kruse Ledet
The formidable Peak Lenin  | Simon Yates
High camp, ascent on Peak Lenin, Kyrgyzstan
Base Camp Lenin Peak

Peak Lenin Expedition

A high altitude expedition to Peak Lenin (7134m/23,405ft) in the Pamirs, considered one of the world's most achievable 7000m mountains

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 4 reviews

25 Days from

$ USD

Trip Code: PLE
View dates to BookEssential Information

Extra trip options & supplements

*Prices listed are per person

Duration

  • 25 Days

Activities

  • 19 day trek/mountaineering

Accommodation

  • 21 nights camping
  • 3 nights hotels

Meals

  • 21 Dinners
  • 21 Lunches
  • 24 Breakfasts

Difficulty Grading  

10 / 10

Advanced Mountaineering Expedition

Technical Grading  

Intermediate

Trip highlights

  • Climb Peak Lenin and reach 7000m with world class leadership
  • Experience a high level of support, including porters above base camp
  • Travel through the spectacular mountain scenery of Central Asia
  • Enjoy comfortable fully-inclusive base camp services set on an alpine meadow
  • Maximise your chances of summit success with ample acclimatisation built into the itinerary, mirroring our previously successful Peak Lenin expeditions

Overview

Situated on the Tajikistan - Kyrgyzstan border, Peak Lenin stands at an altitude of 7134m and is the second highest mountain in the Pamir mountain range. Although a popular and non-technical ascent suitable for those who wish to climb for the first time over 7000 metres, this expedition is not to be underestimated due to the extreme altitude involved. Our expedition is from the Kyrgyzstan side of the peak, beginning from the village of Osh. We will acclimatise on the mountain, establishing and stocking our high camps for the first half of our expedition. Once all camps are in place, we will rest before making our summit push under expert guidance. To join this expedition you will need a high level of fitness, basic mountaineering skills, prior experience at high altitude and the desire required to reach the summit of a significant 7000m mountain.

Itinerary

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On arrival you will be met by a representative of World Expeditions and transferred to the group hotel. Your leader will leave a message at reception to advise of the briefing time which will depend on the arrival times of expedition members.

Meals: Nil

We will rise early for our flight to Osh, the nearest city from which expeditions to Lenin Peak begin. Osh (called 'The Southern Capital") is the biggest city in southern Kyrgyzstan. It is a city with a host of side-streets, cozy open-air cafes and restaurants, bazaars and the main point of interest - "Sulayman-Mountain". This "mountain" rises in the middle of the town against a background of urban life, reminding us of the proximity of the Pamir-Alay Mountains, one of the least known mountain wildernesses in the world. From Osh to our base camp we drive along the Pamir Tract. We will cross the Taldyk Pass (3615m) before taking lunch in a yurt camp near Sary Tash village en-route. In the afternoon we will enter the Alay Valley to our base camp. Base Camp (3800m) is set on a picturesque alpine glade "Lukovaya Polyana". It is very comfortably appointed with large two person tents with wooden flooring and kurpachas, Kirghiz national mattress, hot showers and best of all, saunas. (300 km, 7-8hrs).

Meals: B,L,D

This day has been set aside for rest and acclimatisation. Your guide will brief you on the days ahead and assist you with your gear. Flexibility, a positive attitude and a desire to patiently overcome the various challenges are required on high altitude expeditions!

Meals: B,L,D

Over the course of the next 3 days we will do further acclimatisation walks in the hills above basecamp and possibly attempt to climb the nearby Peak Petrovsky at 4800m.

Meals: B,L,D

The schedule during an expedition is flexible, with time required for rest, acclimatisation, weather and other factors.Today is a planned rest day at our well equipped base camp, where you may wish to avail of the sauna (at own expense) or another hot shower before the next stage of the expedition.

Meals: B,L,D

Today will be a long day as we depart for camp 1/ABC (Advance base camp). Approx 9-10 hrs.

Meals: B,L,D

During this acclimatisation period we will explore the area around camp 1/ABC and ascend to camp 2 at 5400m for the first time. Leaving camp 1 we head towards the North Wall and the beginning of the snow slope. After crossing the Lenin Glacier the angle of the slope is 35 to 40 degrees and we will use fixed ropes to assist us. Continuing up for approx. 80 metres we then traverse the slope onto a snow plateau known as “Skovoroda”. There is a final slope before reaching camp, we will then return to camp 1/ABC for a rest day.

Meals: B,L,D

Today is set aside to rest and recharge at our well equipped camp 1/ABC.

Meals: B,L,D

We leave the comfort of our advance base camp to make our way to camp 3 from where we will make our summit bid.The climb between camp 2 and camp 3 can be exposed and windy. We ascend the 30 degrees slope towards Razdelnaya Peak always keeping to the left of the rock to gain the broad ridge. Camp 3 is located at 6100m on the plateau about 200m from the summit of Razdelnaya. We will then retrace our steps to camp 1/ABC.

Meals: B,L,D

A final rest day at camp 1/ABC before our summit bid.

Meals: B,L,D

The route to the summit is not considered a technical climb, and although it is relatively straightforward, it is very challenging due to the high altitude and often adverse weather conditions. The trek to the top is a long one on a relatively easy angled ridge. Summit day will be around a 12-14 hour day. Our itinerary during this time is flexible. We ask that all participants follow the advice of the expedition leader and crew at all times and participate actively in load carrying, setting up of camps and preparing of meals when required. We have two contingency days to be used where required in the itinerary to maximise our chances of summit success.

Meals: B,L,D

Our final journey on the mountain, back to base camp for a well earned shower.

Meals: B,L,D

After a demanding yet exhilarating climb farewell the mountain and transfer back to Osh. Time now to hopefully celebrate summit success!

Meals: B

We make a relatively early start this morning for the flight back to Bishkek. The day is at leisure.

Meals: B

After breakfast trip concludes with a transfer to the airport for onward arrangements.

Meals: B

Ready to start your adventure?

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What’s included?

Included

  • 24 breakfasts, 21 lunches and 21 dinners
  • 3 star accommodation in Bishkek on a twin share basis
  • Led by a world class mountaineer accompanied by an expert local high altitude guide
  • Bishkek airport transfers, days 1 & 25
  • All internal transport by flight, minibus and 4WD jeep
  • Medical kit and walkie-talkies for guide use on the mountain
  • Climbing and boundary zone permits
  • Porters for group gear above base camp
  • Two person tents, group camping equipment & mess tent
  • All meals while on the mountain
  • Services above base camp including the use of fixed ropes
  • porterage during the climb for 10 kg of personal gear

Not included

  • Lunch and dinner in Bishkek
  • Bottled water, aerated and alcoholic drinks
  • Eating utensils above base camp (bring mug, bowl and spork)
  • Items of a personal nature such as phone calls, laundry, etc.
  • Tips
  • Travel insurance
  • Visa's
  • Airport & departure taxes
  • International flights & departure taxes
  • Snacks/energy gels/rehydration tablets etc for summit period (bring enough for a 3 day summit climb)
  • Personal climbing gear (boots, ice axe, harness etc)
  • Personal porter for personal gear above 10 kg
  • Any and all costs associated with leaving the expedition early or any changes to the itinerary as described
  • Excess luggage on domestic flights, ticket includes 15 kg of checked luggage and 8 kg of carryon

About your guide

Our leader for 2025 is to be confirmed, you can be assured of a professional and experienced guide to best support your summit aspirations.

Reviews (4)

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