The breathtaking view from the Amphu Labsta. | Soren Kruse Ledet

A successful ascent on Baruntse | Simon Yates

Baruntse base camp and puja | Giles West, taken on Baruntse/Mera Peak with Andrew Lock in 2024

Climbers on Baruntse in Nepal | Annette Skirka

Descending the West Col towards Baruntse BC in the Honku Valley | Jasmine Star

Taking a break before climbing the West Col Baruntse | Giles West, taken on Baruntse/Mera Peak with Andrew Lock in 2024

Camp 1 Baruntse | Giles West, taken on Baruntse/Mera Peak with Andrew Lock in 2024

Heading towards the West Col on Stage 2 of the GHT | Jasmine Star

Amphu Labtsa icefall | Soren Kruse Ledet

Views of Makalu from the Sherpani Col | Robin Boustead

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Baruntse Ascent, Makalu & Everest Traverse trekwith Andrew Lock

Technical Sherpani Col traverse and Baruntse ascent with Andrew Lock across Nepal’s remote Makalu–Everest region

Nepal

35 Days from

$13290 USD

$13990 USD

Trip Code: ABV

View dates to Book

Essential Information

Extra trip options & supplements

*Prices listed are per person

Hotel only Single Supplement

$190 USD

Tent only Single Supplement

$560 USD

Single Supplement

$750 USD

Duration

35 Days

Activities

30 day trek/mountaineering

Style

Classic Adventures

Accommodation

4 nights hotel
2 nights lodge
28 nights camping

Meals

Valued at USD$1500

30 Dinners
30 Lunches
34 Breakfasts

Difficulty Grading

10 / 10

Advanced Mountaineering Expedition

Technical Grading

Difficult

Trip highlights

Climb Baruntse (7,129m) via the legendary Sherpani Col & Amphu Labtsa Traverse, one of the most technical and spectacular routes in the Himalaya
Led by Andrew Lock, 18 × 8,000-metre summiteer and one of the world’s most experienced high-altitude guides
Generous acclimatisation and contingency days for weather windows to maximise your summit opportunities
Full logistical support including a highly experienced Sherpa team, high-quality base camps, and proven safety systems
Comprehensive safety equipment including group medical kit, portable altitude chamber, satellite phone and oxygen cylinder for emergency use
Maximise your chance of success with a 1:2 climbing sherpa to climber ratio

Overview

The Baruntse Expedition via Sherpani Col, West Col and Amphu Labtsa is a demanding and highly rewarding Himalayan expedition that combines technical alpine climbing with a remote expedition-style Himalayan traverse. Designed for experienced mountaineers, this expedition is led by Andrew Lock OAM, one of the world’s most accomplished high altitude climbers and the first Australian to climb all fourteen 8000m peaks.

Baruntse (7,129m / 23,390ft) lies deep in the Makalu Everest region, surrounded by some of the Himalaya’s most impressive peaks. The journey begins with an approach through the remote Arun Valley, providing excellent acclimatisation before entering one of Nepal’s least visited mountain regions. The route via Sherpani Col is rarely attempted and commits the team to heavily glaciated terrain, steep ice slopes and complex alpine features.

Crossing Sherpani Col (6,135m / 20,128ft) is a major highlight and involves sustained mixed climbing with fixed ropes and careful team coordination. From here the expedition moves toward the Honku Basin and Baruntse, following a careful acclimatisation strategy before positioning on the West Col for the summit phase, avoiding the need to climb from the traditional base camp route. Summit day follows the South East Ridge with steep snow and ice climbing, culminating on the summit of Baruntse with outstanding views of Everest, Lhotse, Makalu and Cho Oyu.

After the summit the expedition descends via West Col (6100m / 20,013ft) into the Honku Basin, negotiating sections of blue ice and rock before the final challenge of Amphu Labtsa (5,845m / 19,176ft). Crossing this dramatic pass delivers the team into the Khumbu Valley before trekking to Lukla for the return flight to Kathmandu, completing a true Himalayan traverse.

With small team sizes, expert Sherpa support and a carefully managed acclimatisation schedule, this expedition offers experienced climbers a serious alpine objective in the Himalaya under the expert leadership of Andrew Lock.

Itinerary

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On arrival in Kathmandu you are met by a representative of World Expeditions and transferred to the Radisson Hotel. The remainder of the afternoon is at leisure, allowing time to rest after travel or take a short walk nearby. In the late afternoon a pre-trek briefing is held, during which expedition arrangements are confirmed and your kit bag, sleeping bag, and down or fibre-fill jacket are issued. This evening we head out for a welcome dinner, a relaxed opportunity to meet your fellow climbers and expedition leaders. Accomodation: Radisson Hotel Kathmandu

Meals: Nil

This morning final gear checks will be held and if required, we will travel to Thamel where any necessary items will be hired or purchased. The hotel is centrally located and a short walk from shops, cafes and other features of interest. Once all is prepared, you will have some free time to explore Kathmandu’s bustling streets and cultural landmarks. Some worthwhile options include visiting the city’s two most significant World Heritage listed spiritual sites: Pashupatinath, Nepal’s most sacred Hindu temple and an important cremation site, and Boudhanath, the largest Buddhist stupa in Nepal and the most sacred Tibetan Buddhist shrine outside Tibet. Alternatively you may wish to wander the markets and shops of the Thamel precinct or explore other iconic sites such as Swayambhunath, the Monkey Temple, or the World Heritage listed plazas of Patan, Bhaktapur or Durbar Square. Accommodation: Radisson Hotel

Meals: B

An early start this morning for breakfast before transferring to the airport for the short flight to Tumlingtar. The 35-minute flight offers views across rolling hills and distant Himalayan ranges before landing at Tumlingtar, set on a broad plateau above the Arun Valley. On arrival we meet our vehicles and drive to the roadhead at Num, a dramatic village perched high above the Arun River gorge. This drive takes around 4 hours and marks our transition from air travel to the trekking phase of the expedition. On arrival we establish our first overnight camp. Accommodation: Wilderness camping

Meals: B,L,D

The trail descends steeply from the western end of the Num ridge through the cornfields of Lumbang before dropping sharply on slippery rock steps through dense jungle. We reach a suspension bridge over the Arun Kosi at 620 m / 2,034 ft, marking the low point of the day. From the river the route climbs steeply to a small teahouse at 820 m / 2,690 ft, then continues upward through terraced fields of rice, corn, and buckwheat. The landscape is particularly picturesque here, with tiny cultivated terraces clinging to the steep hillsides. A sustained final ascent brings us to the village of Seduwa. Accommodation: Wilderness Camping

Meals: B,L,D

Climbing steadily along the ridge from Seduwa we pass the National Park Forest Nursery project before continuing gently north through rice fields to Manigaon on the next ridge. Several streams are crossed along the way, some bridged and others depending on seasonal conditions. From Manigaon the trail turns west and climbs gradually high above the Kasuwa Khola to a mani wall at 1,890 m / 6,201 ft. An easy walk follows through terraced fields and forest to Hindrungma village and on to Ropesa, where monks are often seen beside the trail collecting donations for the small nearby gompa. The route then crosses open meadows and several more streams before reaching the Tashigaon school and the main village. As the last permanent settlement in the valley, Tashigaon marks our transition into high alpine terrain. A final stone staircase climbs to the cornfields above the village, where we establish camp. Accommodation: Wilderness camping

Meals: B,L,D

We may take two days to reach Kongma Danda from Tashigoan as there significant elevation gain on steep terrain. We begin by climbing over a ridge past a herders’ hut before the trail briefly levels and continues to the shepherds’ hut at Chipla, perched on a ridge at 2,520 m / 8,268 ft. From here the route steepens, zigzagging through forest on sustained switchbacks to reach Unshisha, a small meadow at 3,180 m / 10,433 ft. Gaining the ridge once more, we continue through increasingly sparse forest before a short final descent brings us to Kongma Danda. There are no permanent structures here and campsites are spread across sloping ground, often muddy after rain. This exposed camp marks our first true step into high alpine terrain and plays an important role in the acclimatisation process. Accommodation: Wilderness camping

Meals: B,L,D

Steep switchbacks lead us to the crest of the ridge at 3,840 m / 12,598 ft, marked by a stone chorten draped in prayer flags. This is a superb viewpoint with distant views of Makalu rising on the horizon. Following the ridgeline through rhododendron forest we climb a stone staircase and pass several false summits before gaining a side ridge and reaching Ghungru La, also known as Tutu La, at 4,050 m / 13,287 ft. From the pass we descend to a small lake before climbing steeply up a shallow gully to Shipton La, a major pass named after Eric Shipton and Sir Edmund Hillary, who crossed here in 1952 during their Everest reconnaissance journey to Dharan. Descending from the La we pass two lakes at 4,020 m / 13,189 ft, then climb again through large boulders to Keke La at 4,170 m / 13,681 ft. Beyond the pass the trail drops into a broad valley filled with rhododendron forest. We establish camp at Dobato. Accommodation: Wilderness camping

Meals: B,L,D

Leaving Dobato we descend steadily into a broad alpine valley, passing through thinning rhododendron forest before the terrain opens out into pastureland. The trail follows gentle undulations alongside streams and grassy flats, with surrounding ridgelines enclosing the upper valley. Yangla Kharka is a wide grazing basin used seasonally by herders and provides a comfortable and relatively sheltered campsite. The more moderate walking today allows time for recovery after the demanding high pass crossings of the previous days and supports continued acclimatisation. Accommodation: Wilderness camping

Meals: B,L,D

Today is a scheduled rest and acclimatisation day in the broad alpine basin of Yangla Kharka. The day is spent allowing the body to adapt to the increasing altitude after the recent series of high passes. Optional short walks are available for those feeling strong, following the principle of climbing high and sleeping low, before returning to camp to rest. Surrounded by open pastureland and high ridgelines, Yangla Kharka provides a peaceful setting to recover and prepare for the next phase of the expedition. Accommodation: Wilderness camping

Meals: B,L,D

A shorter trekking day designed to support acclimatisation as we move higher into the upper Makalu region. The route follows a broad U-shaped glacial valley, with towering rock walls rising steeply on either side and snow-covered peaks forming a dramatic backdrop. The scale and geology of the valley are striking, and the open terrain allows a steady and comfortable pace. Langmale Kharka sits in an expansive alpine basin and provides an outstanding location to pause and consolidate acclimatisation before the next phase of the expedition. Accommodation: Wilderness camping

Meals: B,L,D

Today is a scheduled rest and acclimatisation day in the broad alpine basin of Langmale Kharka. The day is dedicated to allowing the body to adapt to the increasing altitude following the recent series of high passes. Optional short walks are available for those feeling strong, following the principle of climbing high and sleeping low, before returning to camp to rest. Surrounded by open pastureland and high ridgelines, Langmale Kharka provides a peaceful and remote setting to recover and prepare for the next phase of the expedition. Accommodation: Wilderness camping

Meals: B,L,D

A scenic and relatively short trek brings us to Makalu Base Camp, set directly below the immense south face of Makalu. From camp there are outstanding views of the mountain’s south buttress, while across the valley our climbing objective, Baruntse (7,220 m / 23,688 ft) comes into view, along with distant glimpses of Everest and Lhotse. The historic Hillary and French base camps lie further up the glacier beyond Barun Pokhari and are now the standard staging areas used by Makalu climbing expeditions. Time at base camp allows for rest and exploration in this dramatic high-altitude setting. An optional acclimatisation walk climbs grassy slopes to a ridge above camp. From around 5,250 m / 17,224 ft there are exceptional views of Everest, Lhotse, and Lhotse Shar, as well as both the southeast and north ridges of Everest, the Kangshung Face, and the South Col. Makalu dominates the skyline to the north, rising steeply above the ridge. Accommodation: Wilderness camping

Meals: B,L,D

Today is reserved for rest and acclimatisation at Makalu Base Camp beneath the immense south face of Makalu. The day allows the body to adjust to the altitude before moving into more remote and technical terrain. Optional acclimatisation walks are available for those feeling strong, including a climb onto the surrounding ridges for expansive views across the upper Barun Valley and towards Everest, Lhotse, and Baruntse. The remainder of the day is spent resting, hydrating, and preparing for the next phase of the expedition. Accommodation: Wilderness camping

Meals: B,L,D

The first part of the day follows open glacial terrain before the route becomes more demanding. The second half of the trek requires careful boulder hopping as we follow the Barun Glacier directly beneath Makalu’s immense west face, a dramatic and committing section of the approach. Swiss Base Camp is set among moraine on a sandy platform directly opposite Makalu’s mighty West Pillar. Very few campsites in the Himalaya are positioned this close to an 8,000 metre peak, giving this camp a powerful expeditionary atmosphere. Depending on the progress we may camp along they way on day 15, otherwise we will have a full day set aside to rest and acclimatise and will aim to reach a vantage point above camp with a (weather permitting) great view of Everest and the fabled Kangshung Face. Accommodation: Wilderness camping

Meals: B,L,D

Leaving Swiss Base Camp we move deeper into serious expedition terrain as we follow the upper Barun Glacier. The route involves sustained glacier travel with sections of moraine, crevasses, and broken ice, requiring careful movement and teamwork. As we gain altitude the landscape becomes increasingly stark and remote, surrounded by towering icefalls and high ridgelines linking Makalu, Baruntse, and the Sherpani Col. We allow up to two days to cross Sherpani Col and approach Baruntse High Camp at 6,100 m / 20,013 ft, maintaining flexibility depending on group progress and prevailing conditions. We depart for Sherpani Col (6,180 m / 20,276 ft) before dawn, reaching the col approximately three hours above camp.The ascent to Sherpani Col involves a steep rock and boulder step, requiring careful movement at altitude. From the col we descend the opposite side, with sections of down-climbing and abseiling as conditions dictate. We then move onto a complex and impressive glacier, travelling carefully under the direction of the Sherpa team and expedition leader, with all decisions guided by snow conditions and weather. A sustained traverse across the glacier brings us to Baruntse High Camp at 6,100 m / 20,013 ft. This is a long and demanding day, and we set camp on the glacier. The scale and remoteness of the surrounding mountains at this stage of the journey are truly immense. Accommodation: Wilderness camping

Meals: B,L,D

We allow a flexible climbing window to establish camps on Baruntse and make our summit attempt. This period is used to move equipment, fix lines where required, rest, and wait for a suitable weather window. The climbing strategy is carefully managed by the expedition leader and Sherpa team, with pacing and decision-making guided by conditions and team strength. The standard route on Baruntse involves sustained snow and ice climbing, with sections of fixed rope and a long summit ridge. The final summit push is a demanding day at altitude, requiring efficient movement, strong endurance, and careful attention to weather and snow stability. Summit attempts are made only when conditions allow, with safety and team well-being the overriding priorities. Following the summit attempt, time is allowed for descent, recovery, and the dismantling of high camps before continuing the expedition. Accommodation Wilderness camping

Meals: B,L,D

We descend from the West Col via a combination of abseiling on hard blue ice and careful rock down-climbing, depending on conditions. Once clear of the steepest terrain we regroup at the base of the col before traversing across the remote Honku Basin. The route leads into the Honku Valley, where a series of large glacial lakes known collectively as Panch Pokhari spread out across the landscape. Surrounded by vast glaciers and numerous unnamed peaks, this is one of the most remote and rarely visited sections of the expedition. Amphu Labtsa Base Camp is established close to the rocky slopes leading up to the pass. During these stages flexibility and cooperation are essential. Camps are set where conditions allow, and the expedition leader will keep the team informed of daily plans based on terrain, weather, and group progress. Accommodation: Wilderness camping

Meals: B,L,D

The approach to Amphu Labtsa from the Honku Valley is deceptive, climbing steadily up a tiered glacier toward the high point of the pass. From the top we pause to take in an expansive panorama, with remarkable views north to the immense wall of Lhotse dominating the skyline. The descent is technical, involving a combination of rock, snow, and ice before reaching easier ground. Once safely below the steep sections we change back into trekking boots for the long descent into the Imja Valley and onward to Chukung, surrounded by the iconic giants of the Khumbu. Accommodation: Wilderness Camping

Meals: B,L,D

Leaving the high glacial terrain behind, we descend into lower altitudes, enjoying the relative ease of the trail as we make our way to Pangboche. After the sustained effort of the previous week, this feels like a welcome transition back into more settled ground. We stay at a comfortable private eco campsite within the valley. Massive glaciers spill down beneath towering cliffs that rise more than 3,500 metres, creating one of the most dramatic mountain settings in the Khumbu. Accommodation: Private Eco Campsite

Meals: B,L,D

We rejoin the main trail of the Khumbu Valley as we trek toward Namche Bazaar, the vibrant heart of the region. After weeks in remote high-altitude terrain, the gradual return to established trails feels both energising and reflective. On arrival there is often a well-earned sense of celebration after completing such a challenging and rewarding expedition. The afternoon is free to explore Namche Bazaar, visit the local museum, enjoy the cafés, or simply relax at our lodge and soak up the atmosphere of this iconic Himalayan town. Accommodation: Eco Lodge

Meals: B,L,D

Leaving Namche Bazaar we descend through forest to the valley floor, following the Dudh Kosi downstream and exiting Sagarmatha National Park. Crossing several suspension bridges, the trail winds through villages, mani walls, chortens, and dense forest as we make our way toward one of the world’s most iconic mountain airstrips. Passing through the riverside settlement of Ghat, we continue on to Lukla where we settle in for the night and celebrate the successful completion of an extraordinary expedition with our support team. Accommodation: Eco Lodge

Meals: B,L,D

This morning we take a scenic flight from Lukla to Kathmandu (approx. 30–35 minutes), a thrilling journey over forests, terraced fields, and villages with the Himalaya forming a dramatic backdrop. Depending on flight schedules and operational requirements, we may instead fly from Lukla to Ramechhap (approx. 20–25 minutes). If arriving in Ramechhap, we continue by road to Kathmandu, a drive of approximately 5–7 hours depending on traffic and road conditions. On arrival we transfer to our hotel, with the remainder of the day at leisure and a wonderful opportunity to head out together for a celebratory dinner. Accommodation: Radisson Hotel

Meals: B

Today is free to relax or explore Kathmandu at your own pace. You may choose to revisit Thamel, explore cultural sites and monuments, enjoy some last-minute shopping, book a massage, or discover further highlights around the city. This is also a great opportunity to enjoy a final group meal and reflect on the expedition. Accommodation: Radisson Hotel

Meals: B

After breakfast, trip arrangements conclude unless further services have been booked. For those departing Nepal today, a scheduled transfer is provided to Tribhuvan International Airport for onward flights.

Meals: B

Ready to start your adventure?

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What's included?

Included

Domestic flights Kathmandu–Tumlingtar and Lukla–Kathmandu (valued at US$306)
All meals during the trek and climb: 34 breakfasts, 30 lunches and 30 dinners (valued at US$1,500)
World Expeditions trek pack including quality sleeping bag, down or fibre-fill jacket and insulated sleeping mat (valued at US$500)
Climbing pack including ice axe, crampons, harness and helmet
All trekking and climbing permits, including national park fees
Good quality hotel accommodation at the Radisson Hotel in Kathmandu
Accommodation in fully serviced wilderness campsites
Private transportation
Airport transfers on arrival (Day 1) and departure (Day 35), or with pre/post-tour accommodation booked through World Expeditions
Extra baggage allowance on internal flights (total 20kg)
Leadership and guiding by Andrew Lock
Full expedition support from a highly experienced Sherpa team
Climbing Sherpa support at a 1:2 climber ratio
Safety equipment including portable Altitude Chamber, group medical kit, satellite phone and emergency oxygen cylinder
Ethical porter and climbing Sherpa support including fair wages, insurance, protective clothing, food, shelter and responsible load limits
Souvenir World Expeditions kit bag

Not included

International flights
Airport and departure taxes
Visa fees
Travel insurance (compulsory)
Meals not listed as included
Personal expenses such as phone calls and laundry
Bottled water, aerated and alcoholic drinks
Tips and gratuities
Any items not listed as included

About your guide

Andrew Lock (OAM) has climbed the world's 14 highest peaks above 8000 metres making him unarguably Australia's and the Commonwealth's most accomplished high-altitude mountaineer. His achievements encompass 18 summits of those 8000 metre peaks, including Mt Everest (twice), placing him in a select group of the world’s best alpinists. His impressive mountaineering resume includes six Australian first ascents and the establishment of many new routes. Andrew was an Australian of the Year nominee in 2010 and the Australian Geographic's Adventurer of the Year in 2009. His professionalism, depth of experience and clear minded nature are assets in the mountains and he is an ideal choice to lead our Baruntse, Makalu & Everest Traverse Expedition. After leading a World Expeditions team to the summit of Baruntse in 2024, Andrew is excited to be at the helm of this expedition with a new approach.