On the Couch with Dean Staples

Meet Dean Staples, a qualified UIAGM / IFMGA Mountain and Ski Guide. Dean has over 30 years of climbing and mountain guiding experience. He has successfully guided Mt. Everest nine times, becoming the first New Zealander to summit Everest from both North and South sides. 

Dean has climbed six other 8000m mountains including Cho Oyu 4 times, Shishapangma, Dhaulagiri, Manaslu & Broad Peak. In 2013 he climbed Lhotse & Everest together in just over 24hrs. He has also climbed Ama Dablam in the Himalaya, Mt Vinson in Antarctica (4 times), Alpamayo in Peru, Aconcagua in Argentina, Carstenz Pyramid in Indonesia, Mt Blanc in Europe, Mt Khuiten in Mongolia, Peak Lenin & Khan Tengri in Kyrgyzstan (both over 7000m) and a host of other peaks around the world. 

Dean’s passion is the mountains, and personal climbing has also taken him to many parts of the world, climbing frozen waterfalls in Canada, big wall Aid climbing in Yosemite & Zion, USA, and rock climbing in Australia, Europe & China. Dean’s interests are turning toward filming in the mountains, documenting peoples’ experiences at altitude and in extreme places. His footage of the summit day on Everest was used by Discovery channel, and he was the cameraman for a re-enactment of the first ascent of the second step on Everest, North side, in 2007.

Describe your guiding style:

Professional, with a relaxed manner.

What is an achievement you are most proud of? 

I have summited half of the world's 8000m peaks including Everest 9 times. 

Do you have a life motto?  

Take opportunities when they come up. Opportunities come up all the time you just have to pursue them when they do. 

What is the best travel advice someone has given you? 

Always travel with enough clothing in your carry-on bag for at least a few days without our other bags as they can sometimes not turn up. 

How do you minimise your impact when you travel?

We have a grass roof. But seriously, I try really hard not to buy bottled water, I take and use a Steripen. 

How do you define ‘adventure travel’? 

A new place, country, mountain, or river and some kind of challenge. 

Two items you pack for every trip:

Coffee & whiskey. 

What are the key factors you consider when selecting an adventure travel destination? 

I think as long as you are enjoying the journey you can make an adventure anywhere. 

What are you most looking forward to on your upcoming trip with us? 

Well, that’s easy I’m going somewhere new! I have spent several seasons skiing in Gulmarg looking out onto Nun & Kun so going to be fantastic to get there. 

Any training tips to prepare for the trip you are leading? 

Climbing at altitude is hard & slow going, so I think it’s best to climb up your local hill with a heavy pack.